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How often you feed your donkey is as important as what you feed. Equines are grazers, this means that they evolved eating a little - very often. But in modern times, equines are maintained by bulk feeding, so now their digestive systems are being assaulted by feeding practices it wasn't designed for. Add in some parasite damage, poor feed and/or lack of water, a dash of stress and you have a good recipe for Serious Colic Stew.
It's best to feed small meals frequently, the minimum - two meals per day,
three would be best. Four excellent, but would be very hard to maintain
working full time for the average person. I fall into the two square meals
per day category myself with my donkeys. Graining a donkey is not
essential. If your donkey is lactating or working then the added calories
and protein might be beneficial. A little
for a treat or to mix supplements in is on the average about all that needs
to be fed. Overfeeding can founder a donkey. Supplements are up to the
area that you live in and the condition of your donkey (fat, thin, pregnant,
lactating, breeding, working, geriatric, etc......). If the hay in your
area is deficient in Selenium or other important minerals, then you need
to supply them in some form of supplement. Your veterinarian can help you
with that.
Salt licks are important, whether you feed loose or block form. Grazing animals are lucky in that they never have to watch how much 'table salt' they ingest! Donkeys should have access to salt year round. I prefer the trace mineral blocks myself. Probably the most important supplement is the least thought of: water. Clean, fresh water is essential for life. On a hot day, an average donkey could drink up to 8 gallons or more a day. If the winters are harsh and cold, having unfrozen water for the donkeys is a priority. A donkey could not eat enough snow to keep it's body hydrated. Where you feed your donkey is equally important. Don't feed on sand for fear of ingestion of such leading to impaction from sand colic. Have hay feeders hung no higher than eye level, or better yet feed from the ground out of safe big tires as the head down position is more natural and less dust will be inhaled. It's helpful to separate multiple donkeys during feeding, because some eat faster than others and will get more than their share, while others less. How do you know if your donkey is too fat or too thin? This is a personal judgment call, but just remember a few points; a donkey is not a horse, so he will not have the muscle mass or fat pad over the entire body, especially in young growing jackstock thus the bones such as ribs and pelvis will be easier to see and feel. You want to be able to feel the bones in young donkeys, especially jackstock. If you don't they are WAY too fat, and could be headed for bone disorders. The donkey stores fat on the top of his neck, in fat pads over the top of the ribs, hips and belly. If you can feel a nice thick neck roll on the neck, or even hard to get your hand around completely - rest assured, your donkey is in good flesh. If your donkey is all round like a fat pony then be really concerned - he's too fat and his health is in danger! Probably the hardest thing you will find in donkey ownership is in trying to not overfeed your donkey, as they are so appreciative of goodies!
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Did you know?
Equines are unable to vomit when they have a bad belly ache, so they either digest what is making them ill, or the worst case - they can die from colic. When a donkey or any equine for that matter is colicky, it is always best to get professional help immediately. The "wait and see" scenario can be a very bad bet for your pet. |
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