(photos and collaboration by Carolyn Christian, Quarter Moon Ranch)
HARNESSING, HITCHING & DRIVING
Before harnessing and hitching your donkey, the selection of harness and cart is of utmost importance. Most driving accidents are caused by faulty equipment. Either the cart falls apart or the harness breaks and causes the vehicle to bump into and frighten the animal. Also, keep in mind that the best behaved animal at home may become frightened or unruly in a strange environment. It is most important to consider that you are placing yourself in a moving vehicle and unlike falling off a riding animal, it is more difficult to fall free of a cart in motion. The second most frequent cause of driving accidents is a poorly trained or unsuitable driving animal. Of course, a novice or reckless driver contributes to the accident rate as well.
HARNESS SELECTION
Generally, the greater the quality and expense of a harness, the greater the durability and number of adjustable parts. The advantage of many adjustable parts is that the harness can be adjusted for a more perfect fit. Donkeys, however, are much more tolerable to an ill-fitted harness than horses, but the trade-off is a sloppy appearance if showing, and possible development of skin or eye abrasions. Modern technology has brought forth nylon and bioplastic harnesses that are very durable and practically maintenance free. The choice between leather and the synthetic materials is one that you will have to make based upon your preference for looks and/or labor saving constraints.
Do not buy the cheapest model of harness. Generally, cheap harnesses won’t hold up for the long run. Lower grade materials are used and parts of the harness may be very thin and stiff. These conditions lead to the danger of breaking and are more likely to cause skin abrasions. Choose at least a medium priced harness. If purchasing a used harness, ask either a knowledgeable driver to examine it or take the harness to a harness shop for advice. It’s possible to end up spending as much or more for a repaired, used harness as a new one.
HARNESS FIT
(Refer to Fig. 15 to identify harness & body parts described in
the text.)
| A. Bridle
B. Blinders/Blinkers C. Overcheck Face Straps D. Bit E. Overcheck Rein F. Sidecheck Rein G. Reins H. Terret (Rein Ring) I. Checkhook (for Side or Overcheck) J. Saddle/Backpad K. Breast Collar |
L. Traces
M. Shaft N. Tug (Shaft Holder) O. Girth P. Outer Girth Q. Loinstraps R. Crupper S. Crupper Backstrap T. Dock of Crupper U. Breeching Seatpiece V. Breeching Holdback Strap |
The bridle should be adjusted so that the bit fits well into the mouth with one wrinkle at the corners of the mouth. Generally, between 3” to 3 1/2” bits will fit most miniatures. The donkey’s eye should be at the center of the blinders and the blinders should not touch the eyelashes. The blinders may be adjusted either at the bit or temple end of the bridle cheek piece. The throat latch should be snug, but loose enough for head flexion. About 2-3 fingers width, slipped flatly between the throat latch strap and the throat allows sufficient space (Fig.16).
Correct fit at the throatlatch.
Proper fit of the harness provides comfort for the donkey
& increases performance.
Photo
by C. Christen
If using a curb bit with a curb chain, be sure the chain has been
smoothed flatly and allow about 2 fingers slipped flatly between the chain
and jaw for correct spacing. The noseband which prevents the donkey
from opening its mouth wide to escape and maneuver the bit should have
about 1-2 fingers width space between the band and jaw.
| The overcheck strap, commonly found on commercial miniature harnesses, should be attached to an overcheck bit. This bit is used in combination with the regular bit in harness racing horses and fancy driving horses/ponies to keep the head up. There is no use for it with your mini donkey, but if the harness comes with an unattachable strap, just fasten it to the noseband, not the bit (Fig. 17), and keep it loose enough so that it doesn’t interfere with the natural head carriage. The overcheck does come in handy to keep the donkey from lowering its head to graze, a nuisance habit in improperly trained or headstrong donkeys. Similar to the overcheck strap, if sidecheck straps come with the harness, either remove them or leave them attached loosely so they don’t interfere with head movement, but not so loose that they catch on the shafts. | 
Overcheck has divided face strapping & is attached to the noseband. Photo by C. Christen |
Proper fit of sidecheck straps that are attached to the bit. Photo by C. Christen |
Side checks are attached to the bit (Fig. 18). Again, they are useful to prevent sneaking a bit of grass. Some show rules prohibit overchecks/sidechecks, but most donkey and mule show judges ignore the presence of them as long as they are not interfering with the natural head carriage. To be safe, however, check with the judge or ring steward. The rules for driving society shows prohibit overcheck straps to be attached to the regular driving bit, but sidecheck straps may be attached.. |
The body of the harness saddle/ backpad and girth, crupper and breeching) should be adjusted so that it isn’t too tight or too loose. The girth is fastened more loosely than a riding saddle girth (about 2 fingers width slipped flatly between the girth and chest wall). If the harness girth is too tight, girth galls (sores) may develop behind the elbow. This can be a problem in a narrow chested, big-bellied donkey, and there are lots of these around! A fleece pad that fits under the harness saddle of a pony-sized harness is usually long enough to cover both sides of the chest up to and just behind the elbow. The pads come with Velcro fasteners that can be wrapped around the girth. These pads work well for schooling and traildrives, but should be removed when in the show arena for appearance.
Correct fit of crupper backstrap.Photo by C. Christen
The length from the harness saddle to the dock (Fig.15) of the crupper, if too short, will put undue pressure on the crupper dock and cause discomfort under the tail. If it is too long, the saddle may be pushed forward by the cart shafts and cause discomfort at the shoulder and withers. The space between the crupper backstrap and the donkey’s back should be about 2 fingers width placed vertically (Fig.19).
Proper fit of the breeching seat piece. Photo by C. Christen
The breeching seat should be positioned halfway between the tail dock and the hock of the rear legs. There should be about 4 fingers width (flat) between the breeching seat strap and the hindquarters (Fig. 20).
The breastcollar should be positioned about 1” above the point of the shoulder; not high enough to put pressure on the trachea (windpipe) and restrict breathing, nor should it be so low as to restrict movement of the front legs.
The reins should be secured around the crupper backstrap with a quick release loop for easy reach and release to control the animal during the hitching process if needed (Fig. 21).
The reins looped around the crupper backstrap with a quick release pull-out. Photo by C. Christen
Generally, there is really no exact order when harnessing an animal, but it is helpful and safer that certain parts are applied in a certain order. For example, if the body of the harness (saddle/backpad and girth, crupper and breeching) are applied first, the traces and reins can be hung on it to keep them from dragging on the ground (essential if showing or during muddy conditions). A halter can be slipped over the bridle for tying while hitching if the animal is calm enough and no helper is available. The most important rule to remember is to never hitch or leave an animal hitched without the bridle and reins on. Some driving organizations will ask you to leave if your animal is not being properly hitched.
HITCHING
The hitching step should be relatively easy once your donkey has been well-prepared for standing in place, bridling, harnessing and ground driving; it has been trained to pull weight and to accept the simulated shafts (Refer to “Let’s Drive Our Donkeys”, Part II). Your donkey should be familiar with your voice and touch commands. Before hitching, extra precautions should be taken since you and your donkey could be vulnerable to trauma should a mishap occur. Therefore, hitch the donkey in restricted surroundings that are familiar and comfortable for your donkey. A 20 x 40 meter fenced off arena or a 25 meter diameter roundpen would be helpful for the hitching process and subsequent driving. It should be noted that some trainers do not believe in hitching a beginner animal in fenced areas for fear of becoming hung up in/on the fence. Importantly, a couple of assistants should also be available.
Use a cart that has been selected for proper size, weight and durability. An experienced person should have checked the cart for defects or weaknesses and these corrected. Always use a 2-wheeled vehicle to break an animal, preferably an easy entry cart for accessibility. A cart is maneuverable and will track with the donkey through whatever antics or moves the donkey may take.
Use a header/headers to hold the donkey by a halter that has been placed over the bridle and leadrope. Hitch in the center of the arena. Roll the cart up to the animal with the shafts held high over the back and gently lower them in place through the tugs while speaking calmly to reassure him. The shafts should be situated halfway between the withers of the donkey and the ground. They should be parallel to the ground and not too long or short for the length of the animal (Fig.16). The point of the shoulder and the end of the shafts should coincide. There should be about a 1-2” space between the shafts and the side of the donkey for correct shaft width.
The traces are attached to the single
tree. For security, note the nylon dog collars (A,B)
and traces tied together
with shoelaces (C).Photo
by C. Christen
Next, hook the traces to the single tree (Fig. 22). Nylon dog collars work well to prevent the single tree from jabbing the animal should one trace slip off or break (Fig. 22-A,B). TIP: To keep the traces fastened, use a black shoelace to tie the ends of the traces together (Fig 22-C). A single tree that gives with the movement of the donkey is desired over fixed trace hooks to prevent shoulder galls (skin abrasions). A breast collar fleece pad should be worn except during show classes. If the length of the traces are too long, the shafts will be pulled back through the tugs. If they are too short, the shafts will be too far forward and poke the neck. Secure the outer girth or belly band (Fig. 23) to prevent the shafts from rising skyward.
(A) Example of a harness with outer
girth to secure the shafts.
(B) Proper figure 8 wrap
of breeching holdback strap with 1 extra wrap to accommodate
the extra length.Photo
by C. Christen
If tie-down straps (Fig. 24) are present at the girth instead of an outer girth, wrap them around the tugs in a figure 8 pattern. Next, fasten the breeching to the shafts by the breeching straps in a figure 8 pattern (Fig. 23). The trace is not included in the wraps, but is slipped through the loop nearest the buckle. The downward pressure of the shafts on the back should be around 10 lbs. for minis. The pressure is influenced by the person’s weight in the cart and can be adjusted by moving the seat forward or backward. The breeching, which acts as brakes, prevents the cart from rolling into the donkey’s hindquarters during stops and downhill pressure. Push the cart to and fro to ensure that the breeching fits correctly and prevents the cart from bumping the donkey. It is helpful once the donkey is hitched to walk the donkey around a bit and check the harness/cart fit (Fig. 25). Make the necessary adjustments before driving off. It is the driver’s responsibility to ensure proper harness fit and cart hitch. When unhitching, reverse the order.
A harness with a tie-down strap
at the girth. A figure 8 wrap around the tug with 1 extra
wrap to accommodate the
extra length. Photo by
C. Christen
Once the donkey is fitted to the cart, a header/headers should walk
at the shoulder while holding onto the donkey’s head with the halter and
leadrope. The header has no role except to walk beside the donkey
for extra control if the donkey tries to beak away. The driver simultaneously
drives the donkey by walking behind the donkey and next to the cart on
the same side as the header. Once the driver is comfortable with
the donkey’s attitude and feels safe enough to enter the cart, the header
can still remain beside the donkey until the driver determines the time
to remove the halter and leadrope. Initially, the donkey should be
walked in very wide circles and around objects. Much time should
be spent stopping and standing patiently. After a couple of days
spent walking, the donkey can then be urged into a trot. Set up easy
obstacles such as 4 or 5 traffic cones to serpentine around, a large piece
of plywood for the donkey to cross, and a couple of cones to drive in a
figure 8 pattern. A donkey that
trots too fast and won’t readily pull down to a slow trot or walk can
be driven in small
circles until it tires of circling.
A properly harnessed and hitched
miniature donkey. The cart is an example of an easy
entry cart.Photo
by C. Christen
You may be confronted with a very energetic or downright unruly donkey
that won’t stop, stand still or possibly rears. The “tug line” may
be helpful at this stage. Resort back to more ground driving and
use the tug line simultaneously with the reins. Say WHOA, pull back
on the reins and give sharp tugs on the line until the donkey stands.
Similarly, the line can also be used for an antsy animal while you are
driving from the cart. This is a better method than constantly pulling
and jerking at the bit to keep the mouth sensitive. If you are not
coordinated to use the reins and nylon line simultaneously, use a helper
to tug on the line when you advise. One of the
advantages of driving is that a helper can ride along in the cart to
help train.
Practice backing the donkey while hitched to the cart. The donkey should readily back since it has been taught to back during the ground driving lessons. If the donkey balks, have a helper place a halter over the bridle and push the donkey back with a lead rope while you are signaling with the reins. Once the donkey takes a couple of steps back, praise and release the rein pressure. When the donkey has mastered backing, start practicing backing up a slight incline and increase the difficulty over time. The donkey needs to learn to back against resistance since you may encounter ruts in the show arena right where the judge asks for the backup!
When the donkey is ready to be driven away from the barn environment, it is very helpful to have an animal the donkey is familiar with to follow. This gives the donkey extra confidence. The companion could be either another driving animal or an animal that is being ridden. Work the donkey around larger animals, if possible, before taking it away from home in case it encounters such and becomes frightened.
In a field, introduce your donkey to other driving and riding animals by having them pass you from the front and rear. When the driving animal hears the sound of running hoofbeats from behind, it instinctively wants to run. These exercises should be done at a fair distance in the beginning while edging closer repeatedly in order to condition the donkey to these distractions. Similarly, do these same exercises with cars, trucks, tractors, motorbikes and bicycles, etc. Dogs running through the woods are also good distractions.
You can’t expose your donkey to everything, but these are some of the more common distractions you may encounter during your outing. Once the donkey gains confidence, it will usually obey your commands instead of listening to its inner survival instincts. It senses that you will not place it in a dangerous situation and learns to trust your judgement.
End of Part III to Part IV==>
*For information regarding driving and trailriding, you may contact the following:
Carriage Association of America
177 Pointers-Auburn Rd.
Salem, NJ 08079
American Driving Society
P.O. Box 160
Metamora, MI 48455-0160
Trail Rider
147 Sunridge Rd.
Alexandria, LA 71302
American Donkey & Mule Society
PO Box 1210, Lewisville TX 75067
(yes, moved from Denton in 2001)
phone: (972) 219-0781
Fax (972) 420-9980
e-mail adms@juno.com
Author Biography: DR. JUDY MARTENS, D.V.M.
Cact-Ass Ranch
Somerville, Texas
Dr. Judy Martens received a degree in veterinary medicine at Michigan State
University. She has practiced small animal surgery and medicine in 4 states - Michigan, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. Dr. Martens received her Ph.D. in veterinary microbiology at Texas A&M University where she has been heavily involved in equine viral and bacterial respiratory diseases and bovine leukosis. Dr. Martens has retired to a hobby of raising miniature donkeys and mules and driving miniatures. She is currently president of the Carriage Association of America - SW Division with local headquarters in Bryan/College Station, Texas. In the past 12 years, she has participated in many pleasure drives, wagon train drives (camping with the mules), and showing events where she has raised, trained and shown her own animals. Dr. Martens is particularly interested in the welfare of donkey geldings by promoting their use through driving.
Photographer, editor and collaborator: CAROLYN CHRISTIAN
Quarter Moon Ranch
Franklin, Texas
Carolyn Christian and her husband Pete have been successful in breeding, showing, and promoting miniature donkeys throughout the country and abroad at their Quarter Moon Ranch in Franklin, TX. Carolyn is Contributing Editor to the ASSET and writes articles for various donkey and exotic animal publications worldwide. The successful Rio Brazos Miniature Donkey Expo held in Waco, TX last May was her brainchild, along with many other projects whose purpose is to introduce the miniature donkey to those who are unaware of these special animals. Carolyn is a featured speaker at seminars in Canada and the US. Both Carolyn and Pete were named Honorary Ambassadors for the Breed by the National Miniature Donkey Association.
1996-2007 by Jeanine A. Rachau.