(photos and collaboration by Carolyn Christian, Quarter Moon Ranch)
PRE-DRIVING PREPARATION (Part II)
By the age of two years, the potential driving donkey should have been taught to obey the verbal commands WALK, TROT, WHOA, STAND and BACK. It should be well socialized and taught to stand quietly while tied. (Refer to "Let’s Drive Our Donkeys", Part I, ASSET, Issue No. 34, Summer 1999, pg. 23) Between the ages of two and three years, a great deal of time should be spent ground driving (long reining) and socializing the animal. This period also allows more time for mental maturation of the donkey.
LUNGE LINE (Longeline) TRAINING
The lunge line is correctly folded
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Before harnessing up, the donkey should be taught to lunge in both directions at a walk and trot (Fig. 4). Of course, the WHOA command will also be reinforced during this exercise. Try to perform these exercises in a round pen or small paddock. If these are not available, use the corner of a fence. It is important to lunge in a circle using the commands WALK, TROT and WHOA to teach the donkey these commands while you are at a distance from him. Circle the donkey in both directions at the walk and then repeat the lesson at the trot. It will be necessary to urge the animal into the trot by either swinging the end of the lunge rope at him or by cracking a lunge whip. |
STANDING AT ATTENTION
| The donkey must next learn to stand quietly and at attention while being harnessed. We will assume the donkey won’t worry about the harness since it has been previously desensitized to objects placed on its body. It already knows the command STAND, but this command may need to be reinforced for longer standing periods. A common distraction is for the donkey to try and nibble at the ground, gradually paying no attention to the trainer and then walking off. To teach STAND while harnessing, a nylon "tug line" can be made (Fig. 5) to apply sharp pressure on the donkey’s muzzle when the donkey decides to move. | 
Assembly of Tug Line:
Attach snap (A) to ring (B) around the donkey’s
neck & twist a single loop in the line.
Pass the
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A halter was not used in this picture for demonstration.
A halter should be used over the
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The line is designed to deliver a sharp tug on the muzzle with immediate
release. The verbal command STAND should be used simultaneously with
the tug (Fig. 6). A warning is in order at this point. If the
donkey is more determined to move rather than stand at attention (like
an unruly jack), DO NOT overuse the line.
Improper use of this line can be severe; similar to overuse of a bit in the wrong hands. Either go back to more tying to teach patience, or hobbles may serve as an alternative method. Hobbles may also be used in conjunction with the line. Of course, the short cut is to tie the animal while harnessing, but this may be a problem if nothing is available for tying or a header (person holding the head) may not be available. This training is for the ideally trained animal and also helps in the future when hitching and driving, particularly if you plan to drive multiple-hitched animals. |
THE BIT & HARNESSING
Some of the more common driving
bits for
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Before the bit is introduced, have the donkey’s mouth examined by an
equine dentist for wolf teeth and sharp edges on the molars. If wolf
teeth are present, they will have to be removed before the bit can be introduced.
Likewise, floating (or filing) the molars will also be required.
Place the bridle on the donkey’s head taking care not to clank the bit
against the donkey’s teeth. Care of the teeth is imperative.
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| An open or blindered bridle may be used. Before further harnessing, the donkey needs to accept and become accustomed to wearing the bit. Place a halter over the bridle and crosstie the donkey by the halter (Fig. 8). Do not tie by the bit. Repeat this exercise daily, around 15 minutes at a time, until the donkey becomes accustomed to the bit. Another method is to turn the donkey loose in a stall or roundpen with the bridle on. Do not leave the donkey unattended during these two procedures. The stalled donkey could possibly hook the bit on something and injure it’s mouth, and the crosstied donkey is helpless. Keep well sprayed during fly season. If the donkey is crosstied, the body of the harness (saddle and girth, crupper and breeching) may be worn at this time. (See Fig. 9, Parts & Placement of the Harness) | 
This method is preferred by the
authors
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BIT PRESSURE & TURNING
Once the donkey is comfortable with the feel of the bit, bridle, and
harness, the next step is aimed toward respecting bit pressure. One
of the greatest problems with riding and driving donkeys is their resistance
to your signal to turn. The donkey sets the neck rigid and straight
forward, does not pay attention to your lateral pressure or pull on the
bit, and moves forward and out of control. The donkey needs to learn
from the beginning that it cannot successfully resist your pull on the
reins. Actually, some donkeys will run straight ahead in spite of
having their head manually pulled completely to the side. Therefore,
it is imperative that the donkey be trained to turn with an automatic response
similar to the same type automatic reaction that an automobile driver has
when applying the brakes to the car. In other words, react first
and think later.
Giving to the Bit. Photo by C. Christian |
To try to accomplish this automatic turn response in the donkey, begin by tying a piece of nylon cord to one side of the bit and gently pull to the side (Fig. 10). A half cheek snaffle bit (Fig. 7) should be used at this point to prevent the bit from sliding through the mouth. If you have previously taught the donkey to bend laterally with the halter, the former training should shorten the response time to this exercise. When the donkey turns its head, release pressure and praise. Once the donkey responds to head turning, begin to teach forward movement and the turned head will lead to circling. It is at this point that many donkeys start to resist. It is helpful to run a nylon cord through and make one wrap around the terret or rein ring (Fig. 9) on the side of the desired turning direction (Fig. 10). |
While you are holding onto the cord, tap with a whip on the animal’s behind and give a verbal command to WALK or cluck the donkey forward. If the donkey pulls hard and resists turning it’s head, make a quick release tie in the cord at the terret (rein ring) and let the donkey pull against itself. It will eventually follow its nose and turn. Don’t worry if the donkey keeps backing at first. It will learn that it can’t evade the pressure by backing. Continue driving the donkey forward until circling by the donkey is accomplished, then release the cord and praise. Repeat the exercise on the opposite side.
If the donkey is successful at straightening its head with the line at the terret level and resists turning, drop the line lower by running it through the lower ring on the surcingle (Fig. 11) or bitting harness (bridle and surcingle plus crupper, no breeching) if you are using these pieces of equipment. If you are using a regular harness, drop the line by running it through the tugs or shaft holders (Fig. 9). The tugs can be stabilized or fixed in place by tying them together with a piece of nylon cord that runs from one tug to the other and securing under the girth area.
GROUND DRIVING (LONG REINING)
Before initiating the ground driving exercises, it is important to remember
that there are three forms of communication with your donkey. Your
driving will be much more effective if you use all three. These include
the REINS, your VOICE, and the WHIP. Like the reins, the whip is
a guide and the donkey needs to respect rather than fear it. Don’t
be afraid to talk a lot to your donkey. Your voice reassures and
gives him confidence. Keep your voice soft; you don’t need to shout
except possibly in an emergency to get out of the way of something dangerous.
GROUND DRIVING :
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Once the donkey responds well to circling, the reins can be attached at the next lesson and the animal driven in circles (Fig. 12). Practice circling for many lessons before driving straight. After many circling lessons at the walk and trot in both directions, use a fence line to drive the animal straight. The donkey may give exaggerated turns at the beginning of straight-ahead driving, but with time, it will learn to respond according to the amount of pressure applied. Teach the donkey to stop by pulling back evenly and saying WHOA, which by this time, the donkey should well understand. If the donkey won’t stop, have a helper reinforce the stop by pulling back with a halter and lead rope simultaneously while you pull back with the reins. |
Praise well at each stop. Each time the donkey stops, give the command STAND, another command the donkey should know well. Be sure to praise and release pressure each time the donkey responds. Don’t practice too much if the donkey does what you want. If the donkey is very obstinate at stopping, drive in very small circles and it will eventually tire of circling and will stop.
Sometimes the ground driven animal may shy and bolt at an object. It is possible that the donkey could spin around and if the reins are through the terrets and your reflexes are too slow, you may find yourself with an animal that has wrapped the reins around its neck, which leaves you with virtually no control. To help prevent this predicament, run the reins through the side rings on the surcingle, bitting harness or the tugs (shaft holders) as previously described, stand one animal length behind the donkey and to the side at a 45 degree angle. The outside rein should then lie between the stifle and hock (Fig. 9, 11 & 12). This way the rein won’t slip up over the back and allow the animal to turn and spin around.
The donkey has learned to back via your verbal command BACK, with simultaneous pressure on his muzzle with a halter and leadrope (Part I, Fig.2). To teach backing with the reins, place a halter over the bridle and have a header apply pressure with the halter and leadrope. Simultaneously, even, steady pressure is applied to the bit with both reins, and the verbal command BACK is spoken. When the donkey takes one step back, release and praise. Do this several times, remove the halter, repeat with the reins and then quit. At this stage of driving, 3 to 4 steps back is all that is needed.
Continue socializing the donkey during the ground driving period. Drive down the road to visit neighbors, participate in ground driving classes at small shows, and teach to cross muddy areas and water. The donkey is insecure when it has to cross obstacles first ahead of you. It needs to learn to trust your judgement.
TEACHING THE DRAFT (Pulling Weight)
Teaching the draft. Photo by C. Christian |
Once the donkey is ground driving well, the next step is to teach the animal to pull a dragging object. At this point, the breast collar (Fig. 9) can be fitted to the donkey and ropes can be attached laterally to each trace (Fig. 9) with a small tire attached to each rope (Fig. 13). It is wise to use an old durable harness, such as a nylon one, for training in order to save your good driving harness. Introduce the donkey to the tires by having another person drag a tire around for it to see, as well as drag from behind for it to hear before attaching the tire to the animal. Ground drive the donkey in the round pen for the next 2 to 3 exercises to teach it to pull against the resistant object(s). A makeshift breast collar can be made by using a pony string girth from a western saddle which would fit |
FITTING THE SIMULATED SHAFTS (TRAVOIS)
After the tire-dragging exercise, teach the donkey to tolerate the shafts
of the cart by using a travois (Fig. 14). A safe travois can be made
out of one inch diameter PVC pipe. The described travois is light,
durable, has blunt ends and is quite safe. Be sure the travois shafts
are securely tied to the tugs. This can be done by drilling holes
through the pipe and threading shoelaces through. Also, wrap the
shafts with the breeching tie-back straps for more stability. Keep
the end of the shafts no further forward than the point of the shoulder
(Fig. 11 & 14). Have a header for this lesson because it is important
that the animal not try to back up with the travois attached. The
travois digs into the ground if the donkey backs and causes the shafts
to become maligned, resulting in a confused animal. The animal should
be driven straight ahead with wide turns to begin, gradually decreasing
the size of the circles. Once the donkey is comfortable with the
PVC shafts, noisy objects can be tied to the crossbar to drag along behind
and accustom the donkey to frightening sounds. (Example: A
burlap or nylon fruit bag filled with tin cans.)
| The travois and tire exercises can be taught
with an open or blindered bridle, but at some point the blindered bridle
needs to be introduced. If the animal has been receiving the ground
driving lessons in an open bridle, repeat the lessons in the blindered
bridle. Before driving, let the donkey stand in the stall or round
pen to become used to the blinders.
There are differences of opinion about using blindered versus non-blindered (open) bridles. Since miniature donkeys are quite unflappable in general, most of them would probably fare well in an open bridle. However, most standard ready-to-wear mini harnesses come with blindered bridles. |
Teaching to accept the shafts. Photo by C. Christian |
End of Part II to Part III==>
*For information regarding driving and trailriding, you may contact the following:
Carriage Association of America
177 Pointers-Auburn Rd.
Salem, NJ 08079
American Driving Society
P.O. Box 160
Metamora, MI 48455-0160
Trail Rider
147 Sunridge Rd.
Alexandria, LA 71302
American Donkey & Mule Society
PO Box 1210, Lewisville TX 75067
(yes, moved from Denton in 2001)
phone: (972) 219-0781
Fax (972) 420-9980
e-mail adms@juno.com
Author Biography: DR. JUDY MARTENS, D.V.M.
Cact-Ass Ranch
Somerville, Texas
Dr. Judy Martens received a degree in veterinary medicine at Michigan State
University. She has practiced small animal surgery and medicine in 4 states - Michigan, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. Dr. Martens received her Ph.D. in veterinary microbiology at Texas A&M University where she has been heavily involved in equine viral and bacterial respiratory diseases and bovine leukosis. Dr. Martens has retired to a hobby of raising miniature donkeys and mules and driving miniatures. She is currently president of the Carriage Association of America - SW Division with local headquarters in Bryan/College Station, Texas. In the past 12 years, she has participated in many pleasure drives, wagon train drives (camping with the mules), and showing events where she has raised, trained and shown her own animals. Dr. Martens is particularly interested in the welfare of donkey geldings by promoting their use through driving.
Photographer, editor and collaborator: CAROLYN CHRISTIAN
Quarter Moon Ranch
Franklin, Texas
Carolyn Christian and her husband Pete have been successful in breeding, showing, and promoting miniature donkeys throughout the country and abroad at their Quarter Moon Ranch in Franklin, TX. Carolyn is Contributing Editor to the ASSET and writes articles for various donkey and exotic animal publications worldwide. The successful Rio Brazos Miniature Donkey Expo held in Waco, TX last May was her brainchild, along with many other projects whose purpose is to introduce the miniature donkey to those who are unaware of these special animals. Carolyn is a featured speaker at seminars in Canada and the US. Both Carolyn and Pete were named Honorary Ambassadors for the Breed by the National Miniature Donkey Association.
Many thanks to Judy Martin and Carolyn Christian for sharing their knowledge and articles.
1996-2007 by Jeanine A. Rachau.