(Note:  these pages are designed in frames - if you are not seeing frames,  please be sure and click here to optimize your viewing experience.

The following is a  recommendation for training donkeys.  It is a recommendation only and should not be considered professional advice.  Author is not a veterinarian or professional trainer and accepts no responsibility for any ill effects that could occur as a result of following this guide. It is always  recommended to consult your local veterinarian or an equine specialist (preferably one with knowledge of donkeys).  ~ jar ~
 
Catching
Leading
Loading
PU  Feet
Packing
Riding
Drive I
Drive II
Drive III
Drive IV

Traversing a pole obstacle in trail class. Photo by S. Kudo

It's difficult to say that in any situation, you do this one thing to bring about perfect results with any one donkey. There are too many variables and far be it for me to set myself up as any kind of a trainer. I'm not. All I can relate is what works for me with my donkeys, my situation and my own experience. I find myself in any given time reacting differently depending what donkey I'm working with, the time of day and what stars are lined up with the planets (only kidding). 

But seriously, here are some simple guidelines that a donkey person can safely use in most situations (keeping in mind at all times the Golden Rule and Murphy's Law!) :

  • Keep in mind that before you can really get to working with your donkey, you must first earn their trust. And earn it you shall. Each donkey tests their handlers in their own way. Some just baulk, freeze up and wait to see what you do. You have to first prove to them you don't loose your temper, and that you won't give up, your patience is forever, and last of all that what you are asking them to do will not EVER hurt them. It can take time to prove yourself to them, but once they understand you are true and honest with them, they will gladly do what ever you ask.
  • Carrots, carrots, carrots... Donkeys can be more dog like than other equines, they can be very food oriented which can be used judiciously to your advantage. Just make sure you give treats inconsistently and give them when you want to, not when the donkey wants them. I use carrots as a kind of test when introducing something new, if a donkey can eat a treat then I know they are listening to me and not 'locked up' and in a unreceiving mode, but I only do that periodically. Be sure the donkey has earned his reward! Nothing can make a donkey nastier and a constant biting pest than constant treating! You have no need to constantly BRIBE your donkeys affection - constantly giving treats actually can make them LESS affectionate and MORE bratty and materialistic.  Please re-read the last sentence one more time.  I've seen more ruined donkeys from owners that equate - food is love.
  • Make your lessons short and fun. End on a positive note - so the last thing the donkey remembers the next time you go to catch him is that he enjoyed himself with you.    Always leave your donkey wanting more. So don't drill your donkey, repeating a lesson over and over to obtain perfection, which can result in a resentful donkey. Be happy with short gains and quit training for the day. 
  • Never, ever, ever, ever loose your temper. If you find yourself getting mad, walk away - even if you think the donkey won. Its better to have a slight set back, then for you to blow up and loose a lifetime of trust. 
  • Try not to put yourself into a situation where you must jerk around or try and scare a donkey into doing something. Bullying them into doing something just doesn't set well and will always backfire in the long run. Always give them a chance to assess the situation themselves, to look things over. If it doesn't seem to be working out, back off and rethink your lesson plan. If the donkey doesn't understand, then the teacher is at fault and taking it out on the donkey isn't fair.. Try another way, and the donkey just might surprise you. I'm always ass-tonished at how a donkeys seems to be able to put two and two together, even when I think they might not be paying attention and then, suddenly, leap-frog way ahead of the lesson plan to step 5 or 6! 
  • Don't be afraid to take a wrap -- if your donkey won't load or go through a gate, etc... get that lead rope around a solid safe object.  Some people will tie them there to think about it for a while and come back to ask later.  I prefer the hand winch method where I slowly take up the slack with my wrap and gradually bring the donkey in.  This works for me with trailer loading, etc.. Donkeys do not have the same responses as their short eared cousins. A horse you couldn't do this with, but you can with a donkey and use it to your advantage.   Once he learns he can't drag you around on his whim and that you patiently will outlast him, he will give you more and more of his trust and gracefully go along with your lessons.

Join Donkey expert, Crystal Ward as she shares her training methods which have won her widespread acclaim.

VHS or DVD

Crystal Ward
PO Box 246
Placerville, CA 95667
Email: asspen@cwnet.com
www.asspenranch.com
 

  • Occasionally, a donkey can test you from time to time, and for your safety you must be the boss, a kind friendly one, but still the boss. This is my line that I have drawn: a donkey may not kick, bite or knock me over. It is not only disrespectful but potentially dangerous, and about the only time I really "punish" a donkey. You have three seconds from the time of the infraction to let said donkey know in no uncertain terms that that is a no-no. If you delay in reacting - then forget about the punishment, the donkey won't know why his is being chastised five minutes later!! Over-doing punishment is a sin for longears, so think before you act. Donkeys can quickly become sullen and resentful from unnecessary abuse. Usually verbal chastisement is more than enough, but if the donkey is really pushy, then a swat (not the head please) and loud no is enough to get the point across to a disrespectful yet sensitive donkey, and actually, it is rarely ever needed. Donkeys on the whole are very gentle, peaceful creatures. 
  • Most importantly, enjoy your donkey. Don't get caught up in just wanting to get those certain lessons done as soon as possible, but cherish the time that you spend together, and the lesson becomes a means of furthering your communication and enriching your friendship.

Here are some additional training tip links:

  • Catching that which chooses to not be Caught.
  • Follow the leader - teaching your donkey to Lead.
  • How to get your ass Loaded - getting into a trailer.
  • You donkey can be civil about picking up Feet.
  • Packing your with your donkey.
  • Riding your donkey.
  • How to teach your donkey to pull a cart - in four sections, Drive I, Drive II, Drive III, Drive IV
The best advice is to hook up with a knowledgeable individual or get involved with a donkey club. Read donkey training books and watch video's (visit my Donkey Book Library for my favorites), or subscribe to the some of the Donkey & Longears Lists, visit other websites about training (see the Longears Links) . And of course, listen to your donkey, he can be your best teacher.

 

 

Did you know?
A donkey's gestation is on the average around 365 days. A horse can average about 342 days. When a horse is carrying a mule foal, the gestation time can be extended out, because of the donkey sire, to a full year or more. Now to be even more confusing, just the opposite may happen when a jennet is carrying a hinny and her normal gestation time can be lessened because of the horse stallion sire.

Copyright (c) 1996-2002. All rights reserved.  http://www.OregonVOS.net/~jrachau/contact.htm

Copyright  1996-2007  by Jeanine A. Rachau.
All rights reserved.
 


E-Mail Webmaster: Contact Blue Mountain Farm
 
This site is powered by:
Compass

<==Previous | Home | Next==>

Catching | Leading  | Loading  | PU  Feet  | Packing  | Riding | Drive I  | Drive II  | Drive III  | Drive IV

Blue Mountain Farm
Our Donkeys
Norwegian Fjord Horses
Contact us